What always appeals to me most about European (and the Asian cities I have been to), is the urban fabric, the morphology of density built long ago when resources were more scarce, and human labor, human bodies, had to do the bulk of shaping and transporting. Sprawl could not be afforded. And there was too little land (for contemporary Asian cities, density is still king, though extreme). Today, much of the older urban center’s commerce is captured by the same global capital conglomerates, eager to exploit markets and working to shape tastes so they are greatly homogenized, but most of the buildings and street lay out and size remain. As diets become more homogenized too, thanks to food conglomerates, people’s bodies are also gradually transitioning to sameness. So where once there were markets full of local products, these have become rare and the domain of the more affluent. Clothes, bodies and stuff, shaped by global conglomerates, selling, selling, selling. In Europe there is sprawl now, encouraged by decentralized planning and revenue dreams, malls and suburbs have been emulated, often built by U.S. conglomerates and big land developers like Trammel Crow. Residents of these car dependent, and more affordable neighborhoods are the ones who protested against the proposed fuel price hikes in France, the Gillets Jaunes. Costs of renting in an increasingly privatized real estate market can only go up, as we, in the U.S. know all too well.
But, the urban fabric, as my colleague Andrew Karvonen has aptly pointed out, is obdurate. It is much harder to change, more expensive, more laborious, and for which people’s expectations have to change too. It is as true for unraveling sprawl as it is for undoing the 3-6 story, mixed uses neighborhoods one finds especially in the historic city. And so, that European density, while it generally does not allow most people as much personal living space as in the U.S., it does allow freedom, the freedom to just walk out the door and be somewhere. It makes it possible to have real public transportation and be free of automobile dependency. It still enables, where the rents have not become exorbitant like Paris, small shops to survive and thrive, from the quirky clothing store to the specialty markets and myriad cafes and restaurants. So delightful just to check out what people create in their minds as meaningful shopping experiences, or goods! But the chains are rivalrous, smothering the independents right and left. They cannot, though, yet, upturn the morphology- that is much harder. They can buy buildings and raise rents to chase the proletariat out further, and that is what is happening. Berlin’s Mitte is transforming, Charlottenburg has a long time ago.
Still, Berlin has impressive public spaces, many parks and many children’s parks, parks where there are real play structures, water features that kids can manipulate and get wet. No one frowns if a young child is playing nude, there is sand to make things with, to bury oneself as though on the beach. Trees, sand and play structures. No lawns. Kids matter. Sadly the US is driven by ‘efficiency’ and such parks require maintenance, most cities when there is a budget shortfall cut parks first. They are seen as luxurious, superfluous to the business of the city, and business it is. Less taxes, more productivity (for whom is the question). In the US, public spaces are not seen worth investing in, beauty is not a goal, a value, or understood relative to how it makes people feel better, feel more expansive and relaxed. Its weird – well, at least in California!
We had a dinner on the Kurfürstendamm Berlin’s high street. It was totally closed down on a Sat eve for a marathon, preceded by the most fun roller bladers in formations (clearly clubs), zooming down the street, encouraged by various music bands and onlookers along the way. What a fun treat in the evening as the day was waning, under threatening clouds. Then there were the jillions of joggers! Cafes along the boulevard were full, onlookers having a great time. Only with a certain density can all that be achieved. In LA, parts of West Hollywood along Santa Monica might offer a glimpse of such sociability and fun. We, in the U.S., deprive ourselves deeply. We seem to believe we are individual islands, self sufficient, self reliant, self made. . . . hum. Rather we are manipulated by constant media messages –mostly about how consuming makes you happy -- and lonely. We are also fearful of the other, a situation made worse by media, by and large.
Farmers markets too remain, some where there are mostly resellers, some with local growers, its mixed. But people enjoy them and socialize. They are friendly, accessible, lowkey and offer an aesthetic experience of colors, tastes, smells. Fortunately, those are increasingly present in the US too.
In southern Mediterranean cities, there is a lot of experience with heat – though they are getting a lot warmer too, and its increasingly challenging. Here again the morphology helps and an understanding that more trees is not all that is possible. Shade structures of various sorts abound, and new ones are being invented. But the old warren-like streets also offer shade, buildings are the shade providers. Of course, in the winter, it might be dark and grim. In the summer its cool and comforting. Many likely have interior courtyarda around which the apartment building is organized. Reputedly this form is one of the most energy efficient in the world, welcoming cooling breezes in the summer, but shaded from sun, inviting sun in the winter. This form is found all over the world. . .
Here is a new shade structure in Marseille that seems to have been improvised for this year, likely renewed each year. The ‘roof’ is maybe burlap or sisal? You can see the arcades in the back beyond the street, lining the building.
And then, there are the traditional arcades.
And finally the architectural innovations that are high modern.
So many alternatives – but not found in LA, in L.A. we are stuck on trees (that take 3 years to grow and are vulnerable living entities, needing water and pruning and that interfere with sidewalks, leading to small ineffectual trees being planted. . .). it seems we can’t muster the design audacity to require all new boulevard commercial and apartments, to add on shade structures over the sidewalks. Instead, the city and its non profit, City Trees, struggle to plant and maintain trees that will provide paltry sade. Sigh. LA is truly not climate adapted, even to the one of the 20th century (in fact, LA sports black apartment buildings that face south and west, and black houses and roofs are all the rage, just crank up the AC I guess). And see the tree!
